What is pattern making?

Modeling, in the simplest terms, is the art of turning the designer’s idea into a garment that fits. Any technique that can turn a design into a garment is valid in the world of pattern making. While the accumulated expertise of generations in the field of pattern making has given rise to innovative techniques in the art of pattern making, some pattern makers still prefer to work in the same old style. However, a growing number of designers are transitioning from flat patterns to three-dimensional counterparts on mannequins or digital tools.

There are many differences in designing patterns in different brands and companies, but the principles of pattern making do not change.

Tools Needed for Pattern Making

To start pattern making, the following tools are needed:

Long Ruler

T-square or L-square Ruler

French Curve Ruler for drawing curves

Tracing Wheel

Tailor’s Chalk

Straight Pins

Pattern Paper

Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper

Scissors

 

Types of Patterns

Initial Pattern (Drafting)

This is done by accurate measurement of the human body or a mannequin or a dress. This method is used to prepare basic patterns or to design patterns. When measuring for pattern making, chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, cross front, cross back, and shoulder width are measured.

Then the measurements are drawn on the pattern paper.

 

Pattern Making on a Mannequin

In this method, the mannequin is covered with a cloth and the pattern is designed on the cloth and then transferred to the paper. In this method, some free space is considered for the ease of movement of body parts.

The benefit of utilizing the mannequin-based pattern making method lies in the ability to visualize the overall clothing design on the body right from the start. However, this approach does come with the drawback of increased costs and time compared to the flat pattern method.

 

Pattern Making on Flat Paper

This method involves creating a foundational pattern that fits the human body or a mannequin, taking into account the free space for the movement of the body parts. In flat pattern design, all the details are drawn in the actual dimensions of the human body, adhering to globally approved sizing standards. That’s why this pattern making method is less expensive. Designers employing this method must possess sewing and cutting skills to craft impeccable patterns. In design for mass production, individual measurements are not taken and standardized global sizes are utilized. Exact implementation of these sizes onto the pattern requires skill. Employing relevant software can enhance both the speed and accuracy of your work.

 

Most Prominent Pattern Making and Sewing Training Centers

Many aspiring designers decide to learn pattern making as part of their education in fashion design. Almost all fashion colleges have pattern making courses. Below are a few notable examples of renowned fashion institutions worldwide.

Central Saint Martins

St. Martin’s College, located in London, England, is a governmental art school known for its courses in art, design, and specially fashion. The university was established in 1986 following the merger of the Central School of Art and Design and St. Martin’s College of Art.

Also, this college has nurtured renowned alumni such as David Koma, Jimmy Choo, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. The fashion design course of this college also includes pattern making credits.

 

Parsons School of Design

Parsons School of Design, one of the most prominent fashion institutions in the world, is located in New York. Among the most famous graduates of this college are Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, Alexander Wang and Donna Karan. Also, this college offers one of the finest pattern making courses in the world.

 

London College of Fashion

This fashion college has several different undergraduate courses and even offers a pattern cutting degree. This issue has made this college an extraordinary place to become a pattern maker. This college is known in the world for offering the most diverse fashion courses.

 

In the following section, we will explore a selection of artificial intelligence models that can be leveraged for clothing modeling and design. These days, with the advancement of technology, artificial intelligence has made its way into various domains, and clothing design and pattern making are no exception to this rule.

  1. Cala

CALA is one of the tools that is known as artificial intelligence model in the field of clothing design. This artificial intelligence model is very similar to the artificial intelligence models that generate works of art, with the difference that it is personalized. In the CALA system, instead of entering a written command with a full description to get your desired output, you first select a basic style (e.g. jacket, blouse, or pants) from 25 options, and then you change the base style through generative artificial intelligence and using two text commands. The initial command outlines the product’s design taking into account its characteristics and the fabric type, while the subsequent command delves into features and details such as the collar or zipper.

 

  1. Designovel

Designovel is an AI tool tailored for fashion design, enabling designers to create their designs in the shortest possible time. Using the power of artificial intelligence and deep learning algorithms, this tool can automatically generate patterns and fashion designs. This tool allows designers to create their own designs according to the tastes and needs of customers, using existing templates. Also, Designovel allows designers to easily create designs using other features such as material, color, size, and fabric type. Users can also upload their designs and inspirational images to create custom designs aligned with their vision.

 

  1. Zmo.ai

Artificial intelligence helps designers and fashion brands create high-quality images of various models quickly, using tools like Zmo.ai. This capability allows designers and fashion brands to produce high-quality images and photos in the shortest possible time through artificial intelligence algorithms. In addition, these tools help brands create stunning and appealing images and photos for use in advertising and marketing campaigns to showcase to their customers. As a result, artificial intelligence helps designers and fashion brands make the design and marketing process faster, smarter, and of higher quality.

These three are prominent examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry. For more information about existing AI models, their capabilities, strengths or weaknesses, please refer to the article ‘Artificial Intelligence in the Fashion Industry’.